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Oil Leak - Left Motor Mount Arm / Oil Filter Housing


Background

It took me a long time to track down this oil leak, because I was blind to what was right in front of me.

I cleaned the engine well, put dye in the oil, and yet still couldn't figure out where it was coming from.
The engine block and head were dry (driver's side) above the A/C Compressor bracket, but under the bracket the block was soaked with oil.
The only things that seemed to be there were the left motor mount arm, and the oil pan gasket.  I had decided that it was the oil pan gasket, gotten mad, and walked away.

Luckily, the next morning I looked at it again..and realized that the damn oil filter hangs off of the side of the  left motor mount arm - and that the motor mount arm was the path for oil getting to the oil filter!  DOH.. that explains that!

Well, next problem- do some reading, and find that the seal in question (Ford P/N XW4Z6840BA) is no longer available from Ford. However image searches on the internet / ebay for the mount arm make it appear that the seal is a simple (relatively large) O ring...

Luckily, further checking the Jaguar parts catalog, Jag still carries the seal for the S-Type.

In addition to that,  one site has a couple of notes on the parts dimensions, (thanks to [url]http://www.brit-car.co.uk[/url])
Main O ring seal
XR816242 - 6.6cm x 6.6cm x 0.1cm (up to vin)
XR824893 - 7.5cm x 6.3cm x 0.3cm (after vin)

I've ordered both of these, as the oil filter housing hasn't changed- in the parts catalogue (AJ85632).  I'm interested in seeing the difference (if one is updated/better), and will provide measurements for all of the o rings.  It is possible that the block fitting changed between the years, i didnt' have a good way to check that.

The bolt also has an O ring in the jag parts diagram that I don't see in the ford diagram, and after disassembly I can see it is very important:
XR85180 -  3cm x 3cm x 0.3cm

I'm going to follow most of the Left Motor Mount replacement process to get into this piece, since i've done that before.  This requires loosening the front sub frame, which sounds harder than it really is.

I'm not going to list every step. like setting emergency brake, loosening lugs before picking up car, etc.  Anyway..

Replacement Process

The factory manual indicates:
Remove the LH engine mount..
Remove Oil Filter
Remove Oil Cooler
Remove Oil Filter Adapter.

Removing LH engine mount:

First thing i did, because I wanted to do it with all of the engine mount and subframe bolts tight,  was break loose the oil filter adapter/motor mount arm main bolt. Oil Filter Adapter mounting nut is 21mm.  114 ft lbs
Factory manual has you remove the intake tuning valve and the fresh air intake housing, seems like a lot of work. I managed to remove the motor mount without doing this.
Remove Upper motor mount nut, 15mm,  30ft lbs




Remove Lower motor mount nut 15mm (deep well handy), 46 ft lbs

Disconnect steering coupling bolt.  10mm, 26ft lbs. Be sure wheel and rack don't turn separate from each other, or when reattaching can damage airbag clockspring.

Support/raise engine as far as can without damaging intake manifold tuning valve, fresh air intake (for HVAC), and fuel pressure sender unit

Remove splash cover to gain access to subframe bolts.  You may encounter 5.5mm headed screws..
You may want to pb-blaster the tops of the subframe bolts at this point

you may also want to unplug the variable assist steering plug at this point to avoid stretching the wire..

Loosen subframe bolts (15mm, 76ft lbs), 2 on each side.  Loosen passenger side a few turns (1/8" or so), drivers side you can fully remove.  I left one threaded a few threads to avoid possible future alignment issues.

Removing the oil filter buys you some space to work with, but I didn't have to.  (Probably will before removing the arm, however...)
Use a prybar to pry the subframe away from the bottom of the car.  I had sufficient clearance to get the motor mount out with the front subframe bolt still in place twish turns.


Pry down subframe, disconnect steering arm (do not rotate) to get it out of the way, then jiggle out motor mount.
Engine mount removed!  This is a crappy aftermarket mount.  The OEM mounts need a bit more space, as they have steel heatsinking/caging on them, If i remember correctly. 

Remove the OIl Filter

Nuf said. have a drain pan ready.


Remove oil cooler

I'd really like to avoid doing this as I don't want to break open the cooling system at the hoses, and I don't want to remove it from the top of the filter housing as it isn't leaking and i'd like to not disturb any seals there may be in there.

I'm going to see if there is enough slack in the cooler lines to remove the oil filter adapter far enough to replace the o-ring without having to disconnect any of the oil cooler lines.

Seems I did. Leaving cooler and hoses in place.

Remove Oil Filter Adapter

Remove main bolt (when tightening, 21mm 114 ft lbs in two steps, 22ft lbs, then 114 ft lbs)  (hopefully you already broke loose as 'first thing i did')


Remove nut affixing power steering electrical connector bracket (10mm)
Remove other 3 adapter bolts (14mm 18 ft lbs)

You can clearly see this is where the oil was leaking from now

This is what the mating surfaces look like

I took measurements of the old O rings, but they're smashed and brittle- so not going to bother posting.

I'm awaiting the seals, but replacement should be same as removal, with torques as noted.
Will take pics and specs measurements on new parts as well.


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