Astro Stuff

Fix for Astro Valeo 5045877 door lock actuators

I found a couple of issues inside. The resistance through the whole circuit was way high.

The brush holder is crimped and riveted to bus-bar, and there appears to be significant resistance there- so soldered across it.

Also, there appears to be maybe a fuseable link? that was also very high resistance. I bridged that with solder.

See pictures here:

Do Not purchase the VDO ac89312 as a replacement

i installed the VDO unit, and the door would never unlock fully.

Comparing the units side by side, the new vdo unit didn't have enough out-stroke to fully unlock the door less than OEM by 1/8-1/4")

I disassembled the VDO unit, thinking i could decrease the thickness of the built-in bump-stop and allow slightly longer actuation- but to no avail. The gear assembly is not long enough for more stroke.

Dome lights don't work with dutch door tailgate - by design, see TSB PI02017

Wire up switch using wires that are in harness at rear right pillar, black and yellow

Open glass hatch from inside- put in momentary switch across wires that come out of button

Theories around lift

Many people do a body lift up front (2-4") to get bigger tires from ~27.5's to ~31's), but it doesn't gain a lot of ground clearance (1/2 of change in diameter, so 1.75")

I'd like to gain more lift under the subframe to the ground, so lift only in the suspension, and see what I can get

This is done via shackles or blocks in the rear, and tightening the indexes on the torsion bars on the front.

But lifting the suspension creates the following problems

Front and rear Shocks riding closer to 'top' of stroke when unloaded- makes for pogo-sticking ride. Solution; Use longer shocks (forum thread for longer fronts, longer rears harder because bracket width/shock diameter, more info), take measurements, model #)

Upper a-arm hitting the subframe when fully unloaded (before the shock limits travel). Solution; relocate upper ball joint to bottom of a-arm

Upper a-arm hitting shock depending on shock at full extension. Solution; relocate upper ball joint to bottom of a-arm, lower diameter shock, or different A arm

CV joint angle - no fix without dropping diff lower

Rear driveshaft u joint angle - fix: spacers under axle to rotate if needed

Bump stops- longer shocks bottom out sooner, don't want to break them - need to set up bump stops at their maximum compression

Measurements as purchased with 250/70/16 bf goodrich K0 @ 35psi and >50% treadwear

Ground to upper fender lip in flatish garage

Front Drivers: 29-3/8" Front Passenger: 28-1/2"

Rear Drivers: 30-1/4" Rear Passenger: 30-1/8"

@ full suspension unload,

Front :

  • As Purchased

    • KYB Excel G 344266

    • At suspension full unload, shock very close to control arm (1/8-1/4")

    • At suspension full unload, upper control arm very close to frame-stop (1/8" on side, contact on other)

    • suspension full unload is ~5" above ride height (2-1/8" shock extension)

    • Specs:: Tube diameter ~44.8mm, Compressed Length:10.63" Extended Length:16.34" Throw: ~5.7"

    • Top out at ~5" above ride height

    • @ top out, short (drivers) CV shaft has ~17 degrees of angle

    • @ purchased ride height, CV shaft at ~3 degrees of angle

    • Inners: "The standard tripod joint GI is suitable for the inboard gearbox joint of a constant velocity sideshaft for most vehicles. It has a maximum articulation angle of 23 degrees and has a plunge length of 50mm. It is ideal for medium working angles and its low plunge resistance aids good NVH characteristics." Outers: "The AC joint is suitable for passenger cars and light vehicles. Providing a maximum articulation angle of 47 degrees to meet the criteria for steering and suspension movement, it is the most popular choice for the wheelside of a constant velocity sideshaft."[ref]

    • 3" lift equates to ~1.25" shock travel

    • 3" lift, extend shock length by ~1.25"

    • Installed Rancho xxxx

    • Hits bump stop on drivers side well before shock is fully compressed, but bump stop compresses- may want to space bump stops down 1/2" or so.

    • Drivers side driveshaft angle ~24 degrees with ball joint swap, passengers side ~22 degrees

    • Think no reason to change bump stops- appx 2-1/4" shock travel left with hard-bump stop about 1-3/4" away


  • As purchased

    • KYB?

    • Compressed Length: Extended Length: Throw: ~

    • top out ~6-3/4"-7" above ride height (~4.75"-5" of shock throw)

    • 3" lift equates to 2 - 2.25" of shock travel

    • 3" lift, increase extended length by 2.25"

    • Think need to add 2.25-2.5" bump stops in stock locations (stock are trashed)

Ball joint replacement in frontlower A arms-

  • Easier to get a arm with joint, but what quality of joint do you get

  • Center punch and drill rivets -- pilot hole (I used .368/U, but you could use whatever is handy slightly smaller/bigger), Then 15/32 for bulk of drilling (to similar depth- to lower sheetmetal), then 1/2 to mostly knock head off, then a chisel to knock off rest of way. I should have used a bit smaller pilot bit- got off-center a little bit. Drill press recommended heh.

  • The ball joint will slip and be loose in the a arm. When you tighten the bolts, it will be plenty snug of fit.

Control arm bushings energey suspension #3.3134G

  • Push out sleeves with 2 jaw puller. Then heat up old control arm metal at bushing with torch (i used MAP gas) until barely smoking, then push out rubber with 2 jaw puller and washers, socket+extension+hammer, threaded rod and washers (pushing against other side of A arm)

  • You have to re-use the upper control arm bushing bolt sleeve and edge washers. Mine were rusted up, so i bought some cheap ones at oreilleys -- don't do that, the sleeve is a different OD and it won't be tight in the bushing sleeve

  • AC Delco PN 45G8057 GM#88912563 has the correct OD of sleeve.