turn one ps install notes
When I bought my CTS-V, there was noise that sounded like power steering pump noise.
Doing some research, many folks complained of power steering pump failure on their CTS V's, and notes of the forums indicated that the stock p/s pump was not made to spin the RPM it could in this application- resulting in black and burned p/s fluid. Additionally, people have been adding larger coolers, attempting to aid the situation- but generally without great results.
Doing research into alternate pump options, there didn't appear to be very many. I found the company 'turn one steering' made 'a direct bolt-in replacement for the stock Toyoda pump' ... 'designed to save you up to 3hp and reduce the power steering fluid temperatures. Made 100% in the USA ' (link) for about 3x the cost of an OEM reman pump (450 vs 150).
The turn one sounded like it would maintain stock appearance/fittment, was a far better in price than the other option (the 'KRC') - while also requiring less work and additional parts to install (install thread for KRC). Note that the KRC pump noted in that thread appears to no longer be available, but the equivalent is ~600 dollars, plus brackets, hoses, and fittings.
Side note, i should have looked further into it, as the noise did not change under steering load- it appears to be something else, perhaps the Alternator. The noise comes from the drivers side of the engine, and goes away when the accessory belt is removed.
Turn One Pump Fittment - Issues Overview
Well, true to typical aftermarket 'direct bolt on' parts, the turn one pump was not a direct bolt on fit. I went back and forth a few times with a very nice gentleman at turn one (Junior) who helped me work through the issues- but this does not make up for the fact that the part is supposedly 'a direct bolt-in replacement for the stock Toyoda pump'.
Here is an overview of the issues:
- Pump came with an AN6 extended pressure outlet, rather than stock type hardline fitting
-- Solution: I sent the fitting back to turn one, and the provided a stock style fitting for no charge
- Once the pump output is changed to the stock type, you can no longer install the pump without removing the pully.
-- Solution: Remove P/S pully using p/s pully puller (rented from Oreilly auto). To reinstall, you may need to get a shorter pully press-bolt to fit with radiator installed.
- Pump inlet is an AN10 type rather than a hose barb type, such as the stock item, and straight hose barb fitting would not fit
- Bolt pattern for pump is not quite the same as stock; only two of the three mounting bolts can be used without very slight modification of the mounting bracket
-- Solution: Take a grinder and slightly oblong one bolt hole on the stock bracket
- Pump outlet is in slightly different place, so the outlet line support bracket does not attach to alternator as it should.
-- Solution: Space out and use longer bolt
Stock pump removal
The factory repair manual has you remove the p/s pully, mostly to access the pump output hardline fitting. I did not find an alternative
The factory repair manual has you remove the pump, and leave the bracket on the car. Because I didn't want to struggle with bracket modifications and new pump inlet fittings on the car, I chose to remove the entire bracket.
Pull airbox and airbox to throttle body plumbing (box removal may not be required, but will give you more space)
Remove belt from pully
Drain P/S reservoir by sucking out if have tool, then pulling return line with container to catch fluid into
Flush P/S system - Keep return line in container to catch old fluid, plug the reservoir return barb, fill reservoir, hand spin the pump clockwise. Continue filling/spinning until waste oil is clean (2-3 quarts?)
Remove P/S Pully using puller tool (rented from OReilly's)
Disconnect P/S pump output hardline from pump
Disconnect P/S hardline support bracket from alternator
Break loose p/s pump to pump bracket bolts (but don't remove)
Remove P/S pump bracket (with pump and reservoir still attached).
Finish removing P/S pump and reservoir from the bracket (to ease modifications/fittment)
Turn One pump Set Up
Swap out pump output fitting (from AN6 to stock style)
Reverse direction of AN10 pump inlet elbow (so it points down instead of up)
-- Loosen jamb nut first, then rotate. Leave jamb nut loose for now
Align/loosely bolt pump to bracket (in pic below, elbow is not rotated)
Identify where metal needs to be removed to make third mounting bolt work
Disassemble and oblong hole as required
Reassemble pump to bracket, tighten to spec
Loosely assemble 180 degree hose end to pump output
Loosely assemble reservoir to bracket
align pump output elbow and 180 degree hose end as well as possible to reservoir nipple
verify clearances and fittment on vehicle (airbox is the tightest spot, I believe, but also check against where pully clearance would be)
Tighten fittings for real
measure and cut hose
assemble hose to pump and hose to reservoir, don't forget the clamps!
Install pump and bracket to car
Be sure to use new teflon seal on output hardline fitting!
--These are hard to find, and do not show up on the GM parts list!
-- I purchased mine from OReillys after trying to go through GM and getting wrong parts
-- Dorman p/n 82540, the larger seal that comes in the package
-- Installation requires hot water and a tapered cone that fits over the threads as well as being smaller than the seal size at the small end
-- I cut the end off of a funnel. See pics below
In the below pictur eyou can see the seal sitting on the 'installation tool'
TIghten pump oulet line
Install pump outlet line to alternator retainer (with spacer and longer bolt)
Reinstall return line to reservoir
Reinstall pump pully (Junior says ".052" short of full engagement with the driveshaft. If you don't, the belt will not align"
Reinstall airbox and plumbing
Fill and purge air from system as per manual. Note, they have you pull vacuum on top of reservoir for 5 mins prior to starting.